NYC's Mercantile Mayhem: Chili Crunch Battle, Queens Night Market and a Dazzling Book Party
A newsletter about the survival of independent businesses in New York City, with a special focus on immigrant-owned, storefront retail and CPG enterprises.
Can You Own ‘Chili Crunch’? Momofuku’s David Chang Thinks He Does
I wrote a story about the brewing “chili crunch” trademark battle for the Guardian, which posted yesterday. For those who have tried a chili-oil-crisp-crunch, it’s a spicy condiment made of dried chilis, oil, fried garlic, often with Sichuan pepper, with roots in China. You can drizzle it on nearly any edible item. Although the Chinese brand Lao Gan Ma Chili Crisp has been available in the US for a while, the condiment became wildly popular when Fly By Jing launched Sichuan Chili Crisp in 2018, now carried in mainstream supermarkets. Chili crisp has practically become a sector with dozens of brands on the market.
However, Momofuku, founded by celebrity chef David Chang, has filed for the rights to own the term “chili crunch” with the US Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). He uses the term on his jars, as do many other companies, such as Homiah, a Malaysian food company, founded by Michelle Tew, pictured above. Her product is called “Homiah Sambal Chili Crunch”. Momofuku sent her, and other small chili condiment companies that also use “chili crunch” on their labels a cease and desist letter.
I didn’t include this snippet, but it’s interesting. Marguerite Mariscal Zabar, the Momofuku CEO, talks glowingly about the global food aisle in this interview during Expo West, March 12 -16, and how emerging brands are not Momofuku’s competitors (at minutes 10.16 and 11.08). Yet Momofuku sent the cease and desist letters to emerging brands two days later.
I really got into the nitty gritty of trademark law. I think my leg muscles atrophied and I nearly got sofa-sores from sitting on the sofa all day working on my laptop—and likely the reason behind my deranged April Fools Instagram post (that I’m not going to link to). But it was all worth it! I always feel so honored when people trust me with their stories, especially when they are in distress. Please have a read.
If you need a chili crisp visual, this is a dollop of Fly By Jing Sichaun Chili Crisp.
Queens Night Market Sneak Peak, Officially Opening April 27
I did leave my apartment on Wednesday, the night of the storm. I went up to Harlem to attended a food preview event, which turned out to be under the Metro-North railway tracks. I thought I was lost, my umbrella flipping upside down, but then a door magically opened, leading to E.Terra Kitchen. Inside the lively communal kitchen was an assortment of vendors who will be selling at Queens Night Market. I took full advantage of the healthy sample portions, so by the time I tried half the vendors’ goods, I was completely stuffed.
Queens Night Market is like an incubator for emerging food businesses. The founder John Wang said that 700 or so businesses have passed through the market over the years. Many are families, especially immigrant parents and first gen kids. If you go, you can try foods from Bangladesh, Portugal, China (different regions, types, there is a new vendor this year making Uyghur samsas with lamb) Bangladesh, Ecuador, India, Barbados, Dominican Republic, Indonesia, El Salvador, Malaysia and Peru—and that’s just from this event, there are many more at the actual Queens Night Market. All items cost $5 or $6. Helpful hint: go right when it opens to avoid long lines at each vendor, think of it as a late lunch.
There are two ticketed events April 13 and 20, $5 advanced and $8 at the door if there are any tickets left.
A Book Launch, a Neighborhood Cafe and a Lion Dance From Upstairs
I went to the book launch party of The Murder of Mr. Ma written by SJ Rozan and John Shen Yen Nee at The Granddaddy Cafe on Grand Street. Rozan is the author of 20+ books, primarily crime fiction and scores of short stories, one is titled “Double-Crossing Delancey”.
Atop a ladder, Rozan explained that she and co-writer Nee needed to consult with a Kung Fu expert for The Murder of Mr. Ma, they found Paul Koh, founder of Bo Law Kung Fu in Chinatown. The Kung Fu studio happens to be right above the cafe, so after Rozan read a passage from the book, the Bo Law Kung Fu Lion Dancers filed in and gave a spectacular performance. Rozan got to feed the lions heads of lettuce dangling from a stick. It was the liveliest book launch party I’ve ever attended.
Living close to Chinatown I’ve watched many performances over the years by the Bo Law Kung Fu Lion Dancers or the New York Chinese Freemasons Athletic Club, among many others, they are always mesmerizing. You can get a better understanding of the event watching this video by Lia Chang.
This newsletter is sponsored by Accompany Capital, an organization that has been investing in New York City’s immigrant and refugee businesses since 1997.
Opportunities & Happenings
Applications are open for the Whole Foods Local and Emerging Accelerator Program (LEAP) for emerging brands. The application deadline is April 19, those accepted into LEAP will be announced in July.
The Biomimicry Institute’s Ray of Hope Accelerator program focuses on nature-inspired startups. The six month program is geared to help startups with solutions for environmental and social challenges. Applications are open until May 3.
Food and agriculture startups anywhere in the world can compete in the Grown-NY startup competition. Three million dollars in prize money is awarded to seven winners, the first winner is awarded $1 million of it. Applications close May 15, 2024. There are restrictions and winners will have to have its primary headquarters in the Grow-NY Region, which is Central New York, Finger Lakes and Southern Tier.
Dragon Fest is accepting vendor applications for street fairs from April through October.
Sponsorship
I plan on keeping this newsletter free by getting additional sponsorship from organizations, I will keep you posted. Some of you have paid for subscriptions, thaaaaaaank you so much! (If you are interested in being a sponsor, please contact me: ninarobertsnyc@gmail.com). Please feel free to forward to others.
Each time I read your newsletter (only twice so far, since I'm a new subscriber) I feel enthused, excited and informed. Thank you!
Oh my goodness, thanks for the shout-out! I was an honor to have you there!